“We travel, some forever, to seek new place, new lives, new souls.”
Anais Nin
My husband and I have been married for thirty-two years but I have never, nor our children have visited his country, Iraq. It was the first visit after many years of living abroad for my husband. Opportunities were hard to come by. Finally, the long-awaited visit to Iraq had materialized this weekend.
Our journey started on Thursday, September 28,2023. A colleague of mine had convinced me to pack my bag and head to Basrah, for the long weekend holidays. On the celebration of the birthday of the Prophet Mohammed (SWT), Kuwait declared Thursday as holiday. It was the perfect timing.!
I could not contain my excitement. I didn’t know what to expect. “What if’s” hovered my mind all day and night before the trip. I thought about cancelling and postponing but I was more geared towards going. I was worried that I will forget the essentials for this trip. I asked my husband if he got our passports and necessary documents countless times. We have travelled multiple times to different places, but this trip was not just an important one but a very special one. I must admit, I overpacked compared to my friend’s one-tote weekender. I still forgot my hair conditioner.!
Abdaly-Safwan Border
My friend parked her Maserati at my parking spot, and we loaded our bags to my Cherokee. I thought, it’s better to drive the jeep to the border and leave it there for few days. I was worried about my car too. Crossing the land border from Kuwait to Iraq required travel documents for residents and expats on visit visa. My husband secured an exit and entry permit from the airport. As a resident on work permit, I did not need an exit and re-entry permit. Anyways, the hour drive to Abdaly felt quick. I made sure that the dashboard cover was properly placed to protect it from intense desert sun for few days. We boarded a yellow coach and waited for more passengers. In no time, driver collected 1 KD per person for some 500 meters bus ride to the border. I could have entered with my car, but I needed a special car permit which is a complicated process to secure. Soon enough, we were at the border. The exit did not take long. We did not expect that my husband’s visit visa to Kuwait will be taken. He has more than a month validity on it. He was told that he can get visa on arrival (VOA) as a Canadian citizen. Within few minutes, we were at the arrival hall of Iraq. The process did not take long too. It was a short queue. My husband and my friend were both Iraqi, so they did not have to pay visa fees. Next time, I will get our marriage certificate stamped from the embassy to save 78 USD visa fee. Visa bank card does not work. I had to pay 78 USD cash or Iraqi Dinar (IQD) cash. Fortunately, I exchanged 40 Kuwaiti Dinar KD to IQD the night before our trip. Not minding the 40 degrees Celsius midday of late September, we decided to walk towards the gate to Iraq. I was overjoyed! My husband was too! I caught a glimpse of pride and joy in his eyes. Welcome to Mesopotamia my dear. I am sorry that it took more than three decades for you to see my country.

Basrah the Venice of the East
Abu Hamad and his beautiful and kind wife Um Hamad were happy to receive us. He was a tall and gentle man. Probably, in his sixties, spoke with calm and proud voice. He welcomed us to his car and asked if our trip was comfortable. He pointed to important sites like the stadium and dozens of oil refineries along the way to Basrah where he and his family lives. He stopped to buy melons and watermelon (Batik in Arabic). The roads from Safwan to Basra were wide and well maintained. Lots of rebuilding and construction along the way. I had the impression that Basrah is on its way to progress.
Um Hamad made sure that we settled in and hydrated with a plastic sealed water in the ladies room. Arabian hospitality is a pride of Arab culture. My husband sat in the next room. I met the rest of the family from the grandmother, cousins, nieces, and nephews. Dinner was served shortly. I am not sure if I was hungry, or the food was delicious. I enjoyed everything in my plate, the pickled lemon and the vegetable stew (tabsi) in particular. The meal was satisfying for both my stomach and soul. After a sweet black tea, my husband and I were headed to our hotel. the family insisted that we stay with them. Abu Hamad took us to our hotel near downtown in Saadi road. I promise to write about Basrah in detail in the next part of this blog.
